You open the door for milk and it’s not that crisp kiss of cold, just a limp waft of cool. In the butter tray, a little pool of sweat is forming. Instinct says panic-buy a new one, because a “dead” fridge sounds expensive, and the clock is ticking on what’s inside. You nudge the cabinet out and see the dust bunnies camping behind it like they pay rent. On your phone, prices for new fridges jump between £300 and £600, and every minute the yoghurt turns into a risk. It feels like the sort of adult problem nobody teaches you to solve. Then you find the bit nobody talks about, the small plastic cube that decides whether the whole thing wakes up or plays possum. The fix costs less than lunch. The milk might be saved. One tiny part, one easy swap.
Why your fridge “dies” and why it often hasn’t
Most fridges don’t fail all at once. They stumble. The common culprit isn’t the big, scary compressor but the little start relay clipped to it. When that relay gives up, the compressor never kicks into gear, so the cabinet warms and you think it’s game over. Add a layer of fluff on the coils and your fridge is trying to run a marathon in a winter coat. That’s why so many “dead” fridges come back after a £12 part and a bit of housekeeping.
Take Claire in Leeds. She was about to spend £399 on a new freestanding when hers stopped cooling overnight. The light still worked, the motor tried to start and clicked off. A local engineer quoted £89 just to look. Instead, she bought a **£12 start relay**, clipped it on in ten minutes, vacuumed the back, and the temperature fell like rain. Not a miracle. Just the most likely fault, handled before the food went bad and the budget took a hit.
Here’s the plain-English version of what happens. The compressor needs a shove to start. The relay delivers that shove, then steps aside. When the relay degrades, it overheats or sticks open, the compressor never gets its push, and you hear a faint click-buzz-click every few minutes. Meanwhile, **dirty condenser coils** can push the compressor into overheat protection, which looks the same from your side of the door: warm milk, sweaty butter, rising stress. The good news: both problems are simple to spot and cheap to fix at home.
The fix you can do today: swap the start relay and clear the airflow
Unplug the fridge. Pull it out to give yourself room, then pop off the small plastic cover on the side of the black compressor dome. You’ll see a little relay and overload protector clipped to the metal pins. Take a photo so you know what goes where. Slide the relay off, note the part number or your model code, and swap it for a like-for-like replacement. They’re item-specific but widely available online. Clip the new one on, refit the cover, and while you’re back there, brush or vacuum the coils. Leave a few centimetres of breathing space from the wall, then power on and wait. *Cold returns quietly.*
A few watch-outs make this smooth. Don’t force the relay; it should slide off with a small wiggle. If the plastic crumbles, that’s a sign you’ve found the problem. Let the compressor cool for 10 minutes if it’s hot to touch. Match the relay by model number or by the stamped spec on the old one, not just by looks. Check the door gasket for gaps with the **paper test**: close a strip of paper in the door and see if it slips. And be kind to yourself. Let’s be honest: nobody does this every day.
There’s a reason pros recommend this first. It’s the cheapest diagnostic you can do, and it either fixes the fault or rules out a big chunk of guesswork. If a new relay goes on and you still get warm air, move on to fans, frost build-up, or a blocked drain. If the fridge bursts back to life, you’ve just sidestepped an unnecessary spend and a trip to the tip.
“Eight times out of ten, a non-cooling call with a clicking sound is the start relay,” says Jacob, an appliance engineer in Manchester. “People think compressor, but the relay is the gatekeeper. Swap it first.”
- Toolkit: flat screwdriver, vacuum or brush, torch, phone camera, replacement relay matched to your model.
- Time: 10–20 minutes, including a quick coil clean.
- Cost: £8–£25 for most relays; gaskets typically £20–£40 if you need one later.
- Signs you’re on the right track: clicking every few minutes, compressor hot to touch, light works but no cool.
- Bonus fix: keep the back clear by 5–8 cm so heat can escape.
What this saves, and when to call it quits
Replacing a start relay and clearing airflow can save £200 easily: that’s a realistic chunk off the cost of replacing a perfectly serviceable fridge, plus the food you won’t bin. It also buys time. A new relay often restores normal cooling within an hour, full temperature by evening. If your fridge is under warranty or a retailer plan, speak to them first. Out of warranty, this is the smart first move before any call-out. On a wider note, we’ve all had that moment where an appliance feels like it’s judging us. You’re not alone. A small act of maintenance is also a tiny vote against e‑waste and for keeping money in your pocket. Still, there’s a line. If the compressor is dead silent with no clicks, smells burnt, or trips the electrics, stop and book a pro. Fix what’s safe, then enjoy that quiet, reliable cold.
| Point clé | Détail | Intérêt pour le lecteur |
|---|---|---|
| Start relay swap | Clip-off, clip-on part that helps the compressor start | £8–£25 fix that often restores cooling |
| Clean condenser coils | Brush or vacuum the dusty radiator at the back or underneath | Improves efficiency and prevents overheating |
| Door-seal paper test | Trap a strip of paper; if it slides out, the gasket is weak | Stops cold air leaks that mimic a fault and waste energy |
FAQ :
- What are the signs my start relay has failed?A repeating click every few minutes, warm cabinet, light still works, and a hot compressor shell are classic clues. Sometimes you’ll smell a faint burnt-plastic odour near the relay cover.
- Is it safe to change the relay myself?Yes, if you unplug first and let the compressor cool. The relay is external and designed to be serviceable. No soldering needed on most models.
- Where do I find the right relay?Check your fridge model number on the rating plate, then match the relay by part code. Reputable spares sites, manufacturer stores, and independent parts shops stock them.
- What if a new relay doesn’t fix it?Look at airflow: clean the coils, confirm the condenser fan spins, and check for frost build-up in the freezer that could point to a defrost issue. If it’s still warm, call a technician to test the compressor windings.
- Will this void my warranty?If you’re still within the manufacturer warranty, use their service route. Out of warranty, replacing external service parts like relays and gaskets is standard home maintenance.
