Radiator reflectors promise an easy heat win. Do they actually work across gas boilers, heat pumps, storage heaters and the odd-windowed homes we live in?
The wall feels warm, like a dog asleep under a blanket, while the middle of the room stays just on the edge of cosy. The owner tells me her bills shot up last winter, and her neighbour just fitted a heat pump. She points at a silver shimmer peeking behind the fins: a reflector sheet from the DIY shop, three quid and a bit of tape. We listen to the faint hiss of hot water and the tick of expanding metal. Somewhere outside, a bus sighs at the stop.
Does that thin foil really make a difference?
Where radiator reflectors help — and where they don’t
Radiators heat by moving air and by radiating infrared. A reflector reduces the infrared heading into the wall, bouncing more of it back into the room and trimming wall heat losses. The payoff is strongest on **external walls**, especially in older homes with solid brick or thin cavity insulation. Internal walls don’t leak to the outdoors, so reflectors do little there.
In one semi I visited near Manchester, a couple logged room temperature and boiler runtime on a cold snap. They added rigid foil behind two radiators facing the street and left the others alone. The living room reached the same 20°C around ten minutes faster, and the boiler cycled a touch less across the evening. It isn’t a miracle, but on a long winter week the small margins stack up.
The physics is tidy. Low-emissivity foil reflects radiant heat; a thin foam layer slows conduction into the wall; the air gap held by the radiator brackets lets the reflective surface do its job. High-temperature systems push more radiant energy, so the effect shows more clearly. Low-temperature **heat pumps** still see a gain, just smaller, because the radiator surface runs cooler and throws less radiant heat at the wall in the first place.
Fitting reflectors the smart way
Pick a panel that combines a shiny, low‑emissivity face with a thin insulating core, usually 3–10 mm foam or bubble. Cut it a few centimetres smaller than the radiator outline, shiny side facing the radiator, and fix it flat to the wall with double‑sided tape or adhesive dots. Keep the top of the panel just below the radiator’s top edge so the warm air can flow up the back as designed.
Focus on radiators hung on external walls, especially north‑facing ones or those backing onto alleyways. Skip internal partitions and rooms already wrapped in solid insulation. Kitchens and bathrooms are fine, but use moisture‑resistant panels and avoid steaming the adhesive on day one. We’ve all had that moment when a clever shortcut peels off at 11pm on a Sunday. Let’s be honest: nobody purges every draught or bleeds every radiator each week.
Avoid the **DIY kitchen foil** myth; it tears, crinkles and loses reflectivity, and it rarely sits flat. Don’t wedge anything that blocks the convective path behind the radiator or traps valves. Keep safe distances from electric heaters that aren’t water-filled radiators, and check manufacturer guidance on towel rails where steam and splash are constant.
“Think of reflectors as a nudge, not a fix. The colder the wall behind, the more that nudge matters.”
- Best targets: external walls, older masonry, large radiators in draughty rooms
- Skip: internal walls, well‑insulated retrofits, underfloor heating zones
- Pair with: TRVs, bleeding rads, heavy curtains that don’t cover the radiator
- Watch for: adhesives in humid rooms, blocked airflow, damaged paint
Different systems, different results
Boilers and district heating with classic steel panels: this is home turf for reflectors. High water temperatures make the radiator face hot, and a fair slice of that heat tries to soak straight into the wall. A reflector trims that loss and nudges more warmth into the room. If your radiators sit in alcoves or behind sofas, the effect can feel bigger because every bit of redirected heat matters.
Heat pumps with uprated radiators: the water runs cooler, so the radiant fraction shrinks. Reflectors still cut the back‑loss, just by a smaller margin in pounds and kWh. The comfort shift can be notable in snug rooms where walls feel chilly to the touch. It’s the kind of quiet improvement you notice when the thermostat stops demanding another degree and the evening feels easier on your socks.
Electric storage heaters and panel heaters: some models rely on front‑to‑back convection and strict clearances. Check labels and manuals, then maintain the gap. A thin reflector can still cut wall warming on external walls, yet safety and airflow come first. Underfloor heating doesn’t mix with wall reflectors at all, so don’t try to “double win” there. *The right fix in the wrong place becomes the wrong fix fast.*
What this adds up to in real homes
Across tests and field diaries, the pattern lands in the same place: small single‑digit percentage gains on whole‑home heat use, higher in cold‑wall rooms, modest in well‑insulated refurbishments. Homeowners often report a room that “comes up to temp” quicker and a wall that no longer feels oddly warm. That feeling counts on a wet Tuesday when the wind presses through the brick like a hand on your coat.
Costs are gentle, which helps. A few panels for a typical ground floor might come in under £30–£50, with payback sitting inside a season or two if your radiators hang on bare external walls. Pair the panels with simple wins — bleeding rads, clearing heavy curtains off the fins, TRVs set properly — and the effect compounds. The reflector doesn’t fix a failing boiler, yet it stops you heating the street.
There’s a human side to it, too. People like doing one tangible thing that makes a room feel less wasteful. The best part is that it doesn’t ask for a weekend of plaster dust or a call to a contractor. You cut, you stick, you notice. And once you see the wall stay cool, you start wondering where else the heat sneaks off to.
| Point clé | Détail | Intérêt pour le lecteur |
|---|---|---|
| Works best on external walls | Reflects radiant heat and slows conduction into cold brick | Quick comfort boost and better value for money |
| System type changes the payoff | High-temp radiators gain more; **low-temperature systems** gain less | Set expectations and pick rooms that benefit most |
| Method matters | Flat, low‑e panels with a thin foam core, fitted without blocking airflow | Real‑world results instead of shiny disappointment |
FAQ :
- Do radiator reflectors work with heat pumps?Yes, though the effect is smaller. Cooler radiators radiate less to the wall, so savings are modest but still measurable on cold external walls.
- Should I put reflectors behind every radiator?No. Prioritise external walls, big radiators, and rooms that feel slow to warm. Skip internal walls and already insulated partitions.
- How much can I save?Think small single‑digit percentages of space‑heating energy, bigger if several large radiators sit on uninsulated external walls. Enough to pay back cheap panels within a season or two.
- Is kitchen foil a good substitute?Not really. It creases, loses reflectivity, and doesn’t insulate. Purpose‑made low‑e panels stay flat, reflect better, and last longer.
- Are reflectors safe behind electric heaters and towel rails?They’re fine behind water‑filled radiators. With electric panel or storage heaters, follow clearance guidance and keep airflow paths clear. Bathrooms need moisture‑resistant panels.









Is there any independent data showing kWh savings, not just “feels warmer” anecdotes? Sounds like single‑digit percents at best, esp. with heatpumps.
I tried kitchen foil once — total crinkled mess, and my cat thought I’d built a disco behind the rad. Im also pretty sure it actually reduced airflow. Purpose panels cost a bit, but they’re alot saner.