Thirsk, tucked beside the A19 with the A1 close at hand, blends small-town routine with TV nostalgia and open-air living. Two weekly markets, a racecourse with roots in 1855, and the spirit of James Herriot give the place shape and purpose.
The market mood: twice weekly and still the town’s heartbeat
Monday and Saturday bring the square to life, under the town clock and across time-smoothed cobbles. Stalls set out early, locals compare notes, and visitors drift in for honest food and handmade bits that don’t punish the wallet. Independent shops ring the scene, and owners often serve you themselves. Ask about a cheese and you’ll hear where it was made. Ask about a loaf and you’ll get the baker’s routine.
Two markets a week, a clock you can set your day by, and prices that still feel fair.
What you’ll actually find on the stalls
- Fresh fruit and veg piled high, with Yorkshire rhubarb in season.
- Regional cheeses, chutneys and local honey in small-batch jars.
- Warm sausage rolls, pasties and loaves that sell out by lunchtime.
- Cut flowers, houseplants and seeds for the windowbox brigade.
- Craftwork, candles and small gifts made within a short drive.
From page to primetime: Herriot’s hometown pull
Thirsk is bound up with James Herriot, the pen name of vet Alf Wight. His books underpinned Channel 5’s “All Creatures Great and Small”, a six-series success filmed across Yorkshire. The stories breathe the town’s values: steady graft, quiet humour and landscapes that set the pace. Fans arrive with scenes in mind, then find the streets and riverbank that shaped the writing.
Herriot’s veterinary tales sprang from these streets, then leapt to Channel 5 screens across the country.
Plan a simple TV trail without the stress
Start in the square for bearings, nip to the riverside for a gentle loop, then head out by car or bus to hill villages that echo the series. Keep it light: time in Thirsk first, scenery second. The sentiment lands better that way.
Getting here without faff
The A19 puts Thirsk within easy reach of York, Harrogate and Ripon, with the A1 close for longer drives. Regular trains serve the local station and buses link nearby market towns. Once you arrive, the centre is compact, and Cod Beck threads a level path for a leg-stretch before lunch.
Walks you can start in trainers
For one unhurried hour, follow Cod Beck and loop back through the lanes. If you want a climb, the Hambleton Hills rise east with big views across the Vale of York. The old Drove Road suits steady walkers who like wide horizons underfoot. Long-distance fans can sample a section of the Swale Way, then return by bus or taxi without a long shuffle.
Eat well, sit longer, spend less
Independent cafés set a relaxed rhythm: cooked breakfasts with proper coffee, soups and toasties at lunchtime, light cakes in the afternoon. For dinner, Italian plates at Bianco Ristorante make a sociable evening, while Yorks of Thirsk, The Pantry and Tea Time Cafe keep things homely with comforting favourites. Nearby pubs pour cask ales and carve decent roasts on Sundays. Service is unhurried, and you’re not rushed off the table.
| Need | Rough guide |
|---|---|
| Coffee and pastry | £4–£6 in town centre cafés |
| Market lunch | £5–£8 for a hot roll, pie or salad box |
| Sit-down pub meal | £12–£18 for mains, with cask ale from £4–£6 |
| Return bus to nearby villages | Usually under £6; contactless often accepted |
Racing since 1855: why the track still matters
Thirsk Racecourse dates back to 1855, and that heritage shows in how people use it. Families share space with form-watchers. The paddock is neatly kept, the infield is open, and newcomers blend in without feeling self-conscious. On non-race days, hedgerows and green margins frame the town’s rural edge, as if to underline that Thirsk stands with the countryside, not apart from it.
A country track with 1855 credentials: friendly paddocks, room to roam, and a day that suits mixed ages.
Make your time fit your day
- Three-hour dash: arrive early, browse the market, walk Cod Beck, then coffee and a slice before heading on.
- Full day: markets in the morning, Hambleton Hills loop after lunch, back for an early dinner on the square.
- Herriot fan plan: morning in Thirsk for context, then an afternoon village circuit tied to the series tone, not the exact shots.
At-a-glance facts to help you plan
- Market days run Monday and Saturday on the cobbles beneath the clock.
- TV link: “All Creatures Great and Small” on Channel 5, rooted in James Herriot’s Thirsk years.
- Racecourse heritage dates to 1855; country setting with a relaxed, family-friendly feel.
- Position: between the North York Moors and the Yorkshire Dales, with the A19 and A1 close.
- Walks from town: level riverbank loops and longer hill days on the Drove Road.
Practical tips the locals wish you knew
Parking fills quickly on market mornings, so arrive early. Bring a small tote for produce and a bit of cash for lower-cost buys, though many traders now take cards. Paths can turn muddy after rain, especially by the beck and on the moors, so wear shoes you don’t mind cleaning. If mobility is limited, stick to the square and riverside, which keep gradients gentle and surfaces predictable. Budget-wise, a coffee, a pastry and a few market treats often undercut big-city prices, and a pub lunch can still feel like value. Race days lift the town’s buzz; check the calendar if you prefer a quieter pace.
Stretch the weekend without stretching your spend
Pair Thirsk with York’s museums, Harrogate’s gardens or Ripon’s cathedral and canal, using the A19 for quick hops. Walkers can split a two-day plan: an easy in-town loop first, then a longer Hambleton Hills or Drove Road section next day. Sample a slice of the Swale Way to get a feel for multi-day trails without committing to a full expedition.
Extra ideas to broaden your trip
Farm shops within a short drive add seasonal treats to your bag and tend to welcome dogs in outside areas. On race days, arrive early to watch the parade ring and learn how to read a horse without gambling. Photographers get soft evening light along Cod Beck and wide skies on the hills; pack a lens cloth if showers drift in. If weather turns, cafés become your base camp between bursts of dry pavement. Using buses for one leg can trim costs and carbon, and frees you to finish a longer walk without doubling back.
